Method or process of making shoes and other similar forms of footwear



F. L WEMTVVOETE? METHOD 0R PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES AND OTHER SWHLAR FORMS OF FOOTWEAR APPLICATION FILED JUNE 8 191.

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P. I. WENTWORTH. METHOD OR PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES AND OTHER SIMILAR FORMS OF FOOTWEAR.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 8,1917. iifififi'ZK Eatentedfiept. 28, IIOZO.

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A TTORNE x Mm STATES PATENT OFFICE.

PEARL J WENTWORTH, OF FORT THOMAS, KENTUCKY.

METHOD 0R PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES AND OTHERSIMILAR FORMS OF FOOTWEAR.

Specification of Letters Patent. Pate t d S t 2 1920.

Application filed June 8, 1917. Serial No. 173,477.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, PEARL J. WENTWQRTH, a citizen of the United States, a resident of Fort Thomas in the county of Campbellrequiring a minimum amount of moisture,

producing a shoe of maximum comfort, strength, wearing quality and attractiveness in appearance and resulting in the production of a minimum number of defective shoes.

Other objects will be apparent from a consideration of the following specification and claims.

To the accomplishment of the foregoing and such other objects as may hereinafter appear, my invention consists in the various steps and operations hereinafter describedand then sought to be defined in the appended claims, reference being had to the accompanying drawings forming a part hereof, and which illustrates the various steps or stages of my new process or method,

it being understood that various changes ma of iihe claims without digressing from my inventive idea.

In the drawings,

Figure 1 represents a bottom perspective view of the assembled upper, with the lining, vamp lining and upper secured together;

Fig. 2 represents a perspective view of an insole;

Fig. 3 represents a perspective view of a channeled outsole;

Fig. 4 represents a bottom perspective view of a lasted upper on the last, part of the upper being temporarily secured on the last and part being turned back Fig. 5 is a bottom perspective of the shoe complete, without the heel, and

be made in practice within the scope Fig. 6 is a side elevation, partially in section, of a complete shoe.

In manufacturing shoes according to my process, the l ning 1, vamp lining 2, and upper 3 are stltched together along the lower edge as at 4, or they may be tacked or stitched together at intervals, the purpose being to hold the parts securely together. It is to be noted that this stitching or tacking of the lining, vamp lining and upper together is omitted at the heel and toe por- .tlon, so as to permit the insertion of the counter 5 and box toe 6 in position when desired. This assembled upper is turned in lasted over the insole 7 and temporarily tacked as at 8, the tacks not being driven home. The box or toe is one of usual construction having an adhesive which is soluble under heat. A suitable adhesive 9 is used secure the upper to the insole. This adhesive may be applied to the upper or to the insole and may be of any composition,

the only requirement to be satisfied, being that it be of suflicient stren h to hold the upper and insole together. ry cement may be used or an adhesive tape may be stitched or otherwlse secured to the upper. The

parts may be ironed or otherwise subjected to heat, if it 1s necessary to apply heat to cause the adhesive to flow and permeate the material. If a quick setting adhesive is used, as is preferable, to limit the length of time required for setting, the tacks may be withdrawn soon and the upper remains set and securely fastened to the insole. This insole is unchanneled as shown, and may be of any material and of any thickness; paper, composition, fabric, leather, etc., are all suitable and may be used according to circumstances. These parts are still on the last and conform exactly to the shape thereof.

Then as is customary, the shank piece 10 is laid in position and may be secured by tacking, cementing or any other desirable method. The outsole 11 is then laid on the lasted upper, a suitable adhesive or cement being applied to either the outsole or the lasted upper or both, and pressure being applied. his pressure may be of hydraulic, mechanical or any other form, but must be sufficient to cause the outsole to conform to the shape of the last, the adhesive, being preferably quick setting, holding the parts securely together in exact conformation to the last. Of course if the outsole is leather, it is preferable, to previously mold it, but if desired,- and alsoin the use of rubber, fiber or composition soles, the pressure in laying is suflicient to accomplish the proper leveling. As there are no seams and no tacks, the outsole is forced securely into tight engagement over its entire surface with the lasted upper so that the joint is secure all around and no weaknesses or gaps will occur.

This outsole'has been previously channeled as at 12, if necessary, and the channel is then opened while the shoe is on the last, so that the conformation thereof is not changed in any particular. The shoe is then removed from the last and stitched as at 1 3, only one stitching being necessary to provide sufiicient security of attachment. The channel is then laid and the shoe passed to the heeler and the other usual subsequent finishing machines and operations.

Aside from the reduction in the number of steps or stages in the process of manufacturing shoes and the elimination of the use of permanent tacks and the formation of troublesome seams and false portions under the outsole, the principal characteristics of this new method reside in the laying and leveling of the outsole on the lasted upper, the upper being held to the insole by the adhesive and the securing of the .outsole to the lasted upper by adhesive, all before any stitching is done and all while. the shoe is on the last so that it conforms exactly to the last at all times and there is no variation in the relative position of the parts to strain, stretch and break the thread and to cause weaknesses and gaps between the parts to detract from the finished appearance of the shoe and reduce its wearing and service qualities.

Another important feature is in laying and leveling a channeled outsole and turning up or opening the channel While the shoe is on the last, so as not to change or vary the shape of the parts after removal from the last. .Due to the use of an adhesive to secure the upper to the insole and also the outsole to the lasted upper, the use of permanent tacks is obviated and the parts fit the exact conformation of the last. Also in the subsequent stitching operation, there is no possibility of damage to the'needle, thread or shoe caused by the engagement of the needle with a tack. The ridge formed in the welt process is eliminated, the large number of permanent tacks used in the processes is done away with, the false portions under the outsole are eliminated and numerous steps or stages and machines are rendered unnecessary by this process. A minimum amount of moistening is required due to the fact that it is only necesof nails to the insole and because there is no I Also smaller lower edges except the outsole is laid and leveled to weaken or break down the shoe in any particular.

By utilizing this process for manufacturing shoes, the thickness of the insole is materially reduced, as paper may be used for this purpose, because there is no clenching necessity of providing a channel therein.

sizes of needles may be used as .there are no tacks to be encountered and pushed aside, and the stitches may be made shorter because of this fact and the shoe thereby strengthened. The thickness of the outsole may also be reduced as it is stitched directly to the insole. As the shoe, when complete, is a perfect fit to the last, it is of maximum comfort to the wearer.

What I claim is:

1. In the process or method of making shoes and similar articles of foot-wear, connecting the upper and lining together along their lower edges except at the heel and toe portion, inserting the counter and the box toe, lasting and turning the upper in on an unchanneled insole with an adhesive therebetween and temporarily securing the upper and insole together while the adhesive sets for permanent attachment.

2. The method or process of making shoes and similar articles of foot-wear, including providing an assembled upper with the lining and upper secured together along their at the heel and toe portion with a counter and box toe inserted, then lasting the assembled upper in on an unchanneled insole with an adhesive therebetween and temporarily tacking the upper 110 and insole together while the adhesivethere' between sets to permanently secure them together, removing the tacks after the adhesive has set, placing the outsole thereon with an adhesive therebetween, applying pressure to said outsole to level the same, all while the shoe is on its original last, then stitching said outsole to said insole, and finishing the shoe.

3. In the process or method of making shoes and similar articles of foot-Wear, connecting the upper and lining together along! their lower edges except at the heel and toe portion, inserting the counter and the box toe, lasting the upper in on an insole and securing it thereto by an adhesive.

4. The method or process of making shoes and similar articles of foot-wear, including providing an assembled upper with the together while the adhesive there'between lining and upper secured together along sets, removing the temporary securing their lower edges except at the heel and'toe means, placing the outsole thereon With an 10 portions, inserting the counter and the box adhesive therebetween, and leveling said 5 toe, lasting the assembled upper on an out'sole, and stitching the outsole.

insole with ah adhesive therebetween and temporarily. securing the upper and insole PEARL J WENTWORTH. 

